The aroma of coffee drifts through the mountains near Kumihama Bay. Cream-colored green beans tum to brown as they pass through the roaster, swelling as they heat. Tomohiko Nakamura (33), owner of Yamakashya, constantly checks the beans’ condition while adjusting the machine’s heat. He roasts 200 kilograms per month. Through trial and error, he has pursued his ideal.

“Finally, it’s becoming my own flavor. It enters the palate softly, and the aroma spreads. I aim for a mellow taste where bitterness and acidity don’t stand out.”

Nakamura, originally from Kumihama Town in Kyotango City, became hooked on coffee during his university days in Kyoto. His passion didn’t fade even after landing a job at his hometown city hall. While visiting coffee shops across the region, he found the shop he’d been seeking in a town near a brackish lake in Matsue City. He brought beans he roasted himself to the owner, and with a wry smile, he says, “I couldn’t back out once I started.”

The roastery, opened three years ago, sits at the foot of Yamauchi district, which was abandoned in the 1960s. There’s almost no car traffic. Yet, customers visit from the Keihanshin area, and it also trades with shops in Tokyo.

In the tasting room with its wooden counter, he brews coffee while observing the customer’s mood and physical condition. The water comes from mountain springs in Kumihama Town, and rare stones collected within the town are displayed near the entrance. He has commissioned cups from ceramic artists and selected chairs with refined designs, paying close attention to the shop’s atmosphere.

Copyright © The Kyoto Shimbun

Translated by Kyotango City Tourism Association